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After my computer woes, I am going to just go with a pre built computer

After trying to build my own and all that shit my computer has died again so I’m just saying fuck it and buying a pre-built now. I was looking at this guy and it seemed like a pretty good deal.


http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11281552&whse=BC&Ne=4000000&eC at=BC|84|56671|74658&N=4018595&Mo=8&pos=7&No=2&Nr= P_CatalogName:BC&cat=74658&Ns=P_Price|1||P_SignDes c1&lang=en-US&Sp=C&ec=BC-EC11739-Cat25532&topnav=

I’m going to go on newegg and look at the reviews for all the shit in it, though.
ugly crap case, check.
generic psu, check.
crap mobo, check.
meh hdd, check.
cheap optical route, check.
realtek audio, check.
crap warranty, check.

walk away.

ugly crap case, check.
generic psu, check.
crap mobo, check.
meh hdd, check.
cheap optical route, check.
realtek audio, check.
crap warranty, check.

walk away.

Do you know of any good ones?
go to a reputable computer shop and have them build you one… or someone that knows what they’re doing and use newegg.
2x $27 - LITE-ON 20X DVD±R DVD Burner Black SATA
1x $45 - CoolerMaster Case
1x $85 - Seagate 500GB 7200RPM 32M SATA-II
1x $155 - ATi Radeon HD4850 512MB PCI-Ex16 HDCP
1x $80 - Corsair 550W PSU
2x $20 - OC Z 2GB (2 x 1GB) DDR2 667MHz
1x $100 - Intel DP35DPM ATX
1x $195 - Intel Q6600 LGA-775
1x $110 - Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium w/SP1
=======
$864

have someone that knows what they’re doing build it.

2x $27 - LITE-ON 20X DVD±R DVD Burner Black SATA
1x $45 - CoolerMaster Case
1x $85 - Seagate 500GB 7200RPM 32M SATA-II
1x $155 - ATi Radeon HD4850 512MB PCI-Ex16 HDCP
1x $80 - Corsair 550W PSU
2x $20 - OC Z 2GB (2 x 1GB) DDR2 667MHz
1x $100 - Intel DP35DPM ATX
1x $195 - Intel Q6600 LGA-775
1x $110 - Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium w/SP1
=======
$864

have someone that knows what they’re doing build it.

You’d take the ATI over an 8800?

After trying to build my own and all that shit my computer has died again so I’m just saying fuck it and buying a pre-built now. I was looking at this guy and it seemed like a pretty good deal.

http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11281552&whse=BC&Ne=4000000&eC at=BC|84|56671|74658&N=4018595&Mo=8&pos=7&No=2&Nr= P_CatalogName:BC&cat=74658&Ns=P_Price|1||P_SignDes c1&lang=en-US&Sp=C&ec=BC-EC11739-Cat25532&topnav=

I’m going to go on newegg and look at the reviews for all the shit in it, though.

how much did you know about computers before you tried to build one yourself (hardware wise)?

and did you use any form of static shock protection when you worked on it?

how much did you know about computers before you tried to build one yourself (hardware wise)?

and did you use any form of static shock protection when you worked on it?

I knew the parts I needed and how to plug them in.

And none and I built it on carpet. Not too smart in retrospect.

how much did you know about computers before you tried to build one yourself (hardware wise)?

and did you use any form of static shock protection when you worked on it?

i don’t generally wear anti-static straps or anything like that. A couple days ago I even worked in my case while laying on the carpet under my desk. I haven’t damaged anything in about 6 years from static.

yes.
And where do you see that card for 155?

Edit: Oh, the mail-in rebate.

2x $27 - LITE-ON 20X DVD±R DVD Burner Black SATA
1x $45 - CoolerMaster Case
1x $85 - Seagate 500GB 7200RPM 32M SATA-II
1x $155 - ATi Radeon HD4850 512MB PCI-Ex16 HDCP
1x $80 - Corsair 550W PSU
2x $20 - OC Z 2GB (2 x 1GB) DDR2 667MHz
1x $100 - Intel DP35DPM ATX
1x $195 - Intel Q6600 LGA-775
1x $110 - Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium w/SP1
=======
$864

have someone that knows what they’re doing build it.

skip the vista and get XP

I have XP on my laptop, so I guess I could just get Vista.

don’t

I knew the parts I needed and how to plug them in.

And none and I built it on carpet. Not too smart in retrospect.

that’s why it died then

sorry for laughing, but you likely fried every component in there before you turned it on for the first time.

Well I’m still open to opinions

you do realize most ESD damage doesn’t kill the component outright, it degrades it and reduces the lifespan of the component. Most of the time, if you have an intermittent hardware problem with no seeming cause, its from ESD.

that’s why it died then

sorry for laughing, but you likely fried every component in there before you turned it on for the first time.

I had it running, then I would get the blue screen of death more periodically until eventually it never turned on. I’m suspecting a shit psu that came with the case.

could be a shit PSU, could also have been ESD. Intermittent failures leading up to a complete failure is a classic symptom of ESD, or underpowering. With underpowering, however, it probably would have kept turning on, especially once you replaced the PSU with a better one.

2x $27 - LITE-ON 20X DVD±R DVD Burner Black SATA
1x $45 - CoolerMaster Case
1x $85 - Seagate 500GB 7200RPM 32M SATA-II
1x $155 - ATi Radeon HD4850 512MB PCI-Ex16 HDCP
1x $80 - Corsair 550W PSU
2x $20 - OC Z 2GB (2 x 1GB) DDR2 667MHz
1x $100 - Intel DP35DPM ATX
1x $195 - Intel Q6600 LGA-775
1x $110 - Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium w/SP1
=======
$864

have someone that knows what they’re doing build it.

Could you get me a link to which RAM to use?

Vista is a perfectly functional OS that is far superior to XP in pretty much every way. The one issue you could raise about it is the increased hardware requirements, but the same was true of 98 vs XP. With 4gb of ram, it will be a nonissue.

Vista, especially if you’re getting 4gb of ram. x64 XP is garbage, which means you’ve gotta go x64 vista.

Vista is a perfectly functional OS that is far superior to XP in pretty much every way. The one issue you could raise about it is the increased hardware requirements, but the same was true of 98 vs XP. With 4gb of ram, it will be a nonissue.

vista is filled with bugs. It’ll be good once SP2 hits

Vista is a perfectly functional OS that is far superior to XP in pretty much every way. The one issue you could raise about it is the increased hardware requirements, but the same was true of 98 vs XP. With 4gb of ram, it will be a nonissue.

i don’t know. i don’t really see much better about vista than XP. i can’t really say it is worse, but i don’t see all that much of a big deal with it. i still think 64-bit Windows on a desktop is a joke since it is rare that someone is actually using that much memory (unless of course they have loads of garbage running in the background). for someone not too technical, i’d recommend just staying away from 64-bit winders.

fixed
Vista is an excellent OS. I would recommend it when building a decent machine. What I posted was a good machine.

People were saying that the 667 mhz RAM is kind of slow. I don’t know much about it, but is that true?

depends on the fsb of the cpu. What I posted works well together.

depends on the fsb of the cpu. What I posted works well together.

Alright, thanks.
So yeah, I think I’m going with that setup. Everything should be fine if those are all the parts that I order?
yes those parts work well together… of course if you’re not comfortable building it, then you should have a shop do it.
That’s what I was thinking.

I kind of just want to be able to do school shit and Flight Simulator and some other video games.

* sigh *

Don’t buy that P35 mobo, it’s old.
Get a P43 or P45. These are the latest chipsets.

I recommend Gigabyte.

Do you really need a quad core? If not, consider the E8400 dual core.

Seagate is good, but consider the WD6400AAKS which is faster and has more GB.

here’s a $5 off coupon code if you will buy through newegg: EMCAHCFAD

Get DDR2-800 ram. Price diff between 667 is just a few $.
Look at OCZ’s prices:
)

* sigh *

Don’t buy that P35 mobo, it’s old.
Get a P43 or P45. These are the latest chipsets.

I recommend Gigabyte.

Do you really need a quad core? If not, consider the E8400 dual core.

Seagate is good, but consider the WD6400AAKS which is faster and has more GB.

here’s a $5 off coupon code if you will buy through newegg: EMCAHCFAD

Get DDR2-800 ram. Price diff between 667 is just a few $.
Look at OCZ’s prices:
)

So then if you don’t mind would you link me to which motherboard and RAM would work together. That’s one thing that I was never able to understand.

And I think I might as well get a quad core so I don’t have to upgrade for a couple of years.
seagate > wd
intel > gigabyte
quad > dual for most users.

and faster memory doesn’t do shit if the fsb doesn’t match!

i’d take the Seagate if the price diff is huge, but not in this case
those WD6400AAKS are fast with 2×320GB platters, only SATA drives that could pwn it are the Raptors and Samsung F1s

intel > gigabyte

we all know you love Intel, but why the hell would you recommend last years’ chipset?
just because your favorite brand doesn’t release their P43/p45 models yet?

quad > dual for most users.

he wants a quad, won’t debate that anymore

and faster memory doesn’t do shit if the fsb doesn’t match!

so why don’t you give him DDR2-533 then? that’s all he need for a 1066FSB CPU.

you are probably recommending this ram:

unless his mobo doesn’t support DDR2-800, he has no reason to get that instead of this:

$0.50 cents cheaper after rebates and being DDR2-800, he gets free overhead

we all know you love Intel, but why the hell would you recommend last years’ chipset?
just because your favorite brand doesn’t release their P43/p45 models yet?

That is a VERY ignorant question.

Instead, you should be wondering why Intel doesn’t release a board with their own hot new chipset. Perhaps it’s not ready yet???

That is a VERY ignorant question.

Instead, you should be wondering why Intel doesn’t release a board with their own hot new chipset. Perhaps it’s not ready yet???

wtf are you talking about? Intel launch the chipset last month
the delay of Intel brand mobo is foxconn’s production problems

I don’t really care what mobo brand you prefer (just don’t get ECS ), pick the mobo with the features you want/need (# of PCI slots, USB, SATA ports, Firewire, etc) that fits your budget.

If you do want my opinion,… any of these P43/P45 mobos is what I recommend.

I’ve also heard good feedback from MSI’s P43/P45 boards so you might want to check them out too.

that OCZ DDR2-800 ram is fine and should work with those mobos

ignore the negative reviews on newegg, most are about OCZ’s fucked up rebate (the rebate must be postmarked 12 days from purchase )

if you do have doubts about RAM compatibility,… you can check the manufacturer’s site for lists of compatible ram

let’s take this Gigabyte mobo for example:

Gigabyte’s site

RAM compatibility lists

How does FSB relate to ram speed? My guess is you have to be able to divide FSB/Ram speed and ge ta whole number or something of that sort?

Intel’s FSB are quad pumped
Conroe 1066 / 4 = 266mhz
Penryn 1333 / 4 = 333mhz

now look at this chart, note the bus clock,…
DDR2-400 = 100MHz memory clock, 200MHz bus clock, 400mil DT/sec, peak transfer rate of 3200MB/s
DDR2-533 = 133MHz memory clock, 266MHz bus clock, 533mil DT/sec, peak transfer rate of 4266MB/s
DDR2-667 = 166MHz memory clock, 333MHz bus clock, 667mil DT/sec, peak transfer rate of 5333MB/s
DDR2-800 = 200MHz memory clock, 400MHz bus clock, 800mil DT/sec, peak transfer rate of 6400MB/s
DDR2-1066 = 266MHz memory clock, 533MHz bus clock, 1066mil DT/sec, peak transfer rate of 8500MB/s

easier way is just to divide RAM speed by 2 (DDR2-800 / 2 = 400 )

cpu and ram bus should be in sync to avoid wait states
so, if you have a Penryn cpu (333Mhz), you will need DDR2-667 (333MHz) minimum
anything below that, RAM will be a bottleneck.

the advantage of getting faster ram is the overhead, either used for future upgrades or overclocking.
lets say i raised my FSB to say 356MHz,…
since DDR2-667 is slower than that (333MHz), I need to oc the ram.
since DDR2-800 is faster than that (400Mhz), I don’t need to oc it.
I need a book to understand what all this shit means.

Intel’s FSB are quad pumped
Conroe 1066 / 4 = 266mhz
Penryn 1333 / 4 = 333mhz

now look at this chart, note the bus clock,…
DDR2-400 = 100MHz memory clock, 200MHz bus clock, 533mil DT/sec, peak transfer rate of 4266MB/s
DDR2-533 = 133MHz memory clock, 266MHz bus clock, 533mil DT/sec, peak transfer rate of 4266MB/s
DDR2-667 = 166MHz memory clock, 333MHz bus clock, 667mil DT/sec, peak transfer rate of 5333MB/s
DDR2-800 = 200MHz memory clock, 400MHz bus clock, 800mil DT/sec, peak transfer rate of 6400MB/s

easier way is just to divide RAM speed by 2 (DDR2-800 / 2 = 400 )

cpu and ram bus should be in sync to avoid wait states
so, if you have a Penryn cpu (333Mhz), you will need DDR2-667 (333MHz) minimum
anything below that, RAM will be a bottleneck.

the advantage of getting faster ram is the overhead, either used for future upgrades or overclocking.
lets say i raised my FSB to say 356MHz,…
since DDR2-667 is slower than that (333MHz), I need to oc the ram.
since DDR2-800 is faster than that (400Mhz), I don’t need to oc it.

thanks doom. good knowledge to have. i wish i knew that a few years ago. i usually just bought the average speed ram at the time.

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why would you get an SLI mobo?

you’d be paying for something you don’t need/will not use.
plus the fact that Intel chipsets are more stable than nvidia’s.

stick to P43/P45
get a Radeon 4850, it’s better
you don’t like the OCZ DDR2-800 I linked? It’s cheaper than the Patriot

you’d be paying for something you don’t need/will not use.
plus the fact that Intel chipsets are more stable than nvidia’s.

stick to P43/P45
get a Radeon 4850, it’s better
you don’t like the OCZ DDR2-800 I linked? It’s cheaper than the Patriot

The reason I chose that 8800 was because of the warranty that it comes with. And the other two things I didn’t know much about.

ok, if that’s what you want.
EVGA, XFX, and BFG offers lifetime warranties

fyi, the new 9800GT are out

i haven’t researched their difference between the 8800GT yet, but specs and prices are pretty similar. I think Nvidia just renamed them.

again, ditch the SLI board,… get a P43/P45 mobo.
I wish I wasn’t so spontaneous. I already ordered all of that stuff but now the more you post, the worse I feel about my decision.

k, i’ll shut up now.
enjoy your rig.

k, i’ll shut up now.
enjoy your rig.

I mean I don’t think I’ll need any more PCI slots, so other than taking up more room, is there a negative to having the SLI spot? You can be honest.

takes space and you paid for an unused feature. that’s it.

imo, you might as well use it if you still have the $$.
fyi, that Corsair power supply on your list is powerful enough to handle two 8800GT for SLI.

if you think you ever might use SLI, then it might be a good deal, otherwise…. how much of a difference in price was it from a comparable, non-sli board?

takes space and you paid for an unused feature. that’s it.

imo, you might as well use it if you still have the $$.
fyi, that Corsair power supply on your list is powerful enough to handle two 8800GT for SLI.

Thanks, I’ll wait to see how much more money I’m going to make before going back to school.

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