I have a spreadsheet with a command button. It opens a userform that has several combo boxes. The user selects an option for each, and then clicks a command button. I have to run a certain calculation and return the results to the spreadsheet based on which option they chose.

Now I know how to return the results and all that stuff, and already have the equations working. I just have them ALL in the command button that closes out the userform. I need to put them in subs somehow and then call them I think, but I’m not exactly sure how. Anyone wanna chime in?

You can create functions – is that what you mean?

Function YourFunction(YourArgs as Long) as Long

YourFunction = YourArgs * 10

End Function
If you are only returning a single value (string or number), in the code for the form get your values from the combo boxes. Do what you need to them (Math, If Statements whatever) then spit out the result using the Range(application.ActiveCell.Address).Value property.

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I can’t seem to enable network discovery. it keeps turning off after I enable it. Anyone know wtf is going on?
I tried to google the answer all night but can’t find the answer.
which os on the workstation? Is it on a workgroup or domain? Is the server handing out IP addresses and DNS? Or are you using different DNS?

Workstation is on Windows 7.

Its on a domain.

The server is not handing out IPs, but has a DNS role. I have to set the DNS to point back at server to get it on the same domain. it can ping eachother just fine.
the Default Group policy might not allow network discovery to be turned on. Check that first. You can also check to see if you can get to the server by typing in \servername into the search bar at the bottom of the start menu.

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mainly i’m trying to see some examples of database interaction. i must be putting in the perfect terms to return the most broad result set in google on this topic.

thanks

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1. VBA question I couldn’t find the answer googling but I’m not finding...

What was: Asus K8VM800 + AMD somethingorother (64bit, single core) + 2GB ram (1×1G+2×512M) + ATI Radeon 9800 Pro All-In-Wonder (TV tuner + 128M)

Thinking of replacing with these:

• I don’t need fancy graphics, the 9800 worked perfect for the games I played… heck It even ran Doom3 just fine with decent settings when it came out. I liked the TV tuner, but I’ll just get a USB stick to replace that functionality.
• I DEFINATELY need multi core, I was growing sick of managing apps’ process priorities to get things done. Why not go quad? I mostly do web & program development, graphics and video editing on this machine, including non-persistent virtualisation.
• The 2GB was working OK, but I needed more sometimes(especially when I was using FF2 ).
• Old setup utilized the SATA RAID (1) for the primary OS and documents (my other drives contain the pr0n and other can-be-lost items)
• I have 3 legacy PCI cards I’d like to keep (PCMCIA bridge, HDTV tuner, WiFi: if a better board is out there that has just 2 PCI for me I can sacrifice this card)

avoid the USB TV Tuners if you can. they suck and break often.
go quad
ram is cheap
P35 is so last year. get a P43/P45 board.
I checked newegg,…. right now, Gigabyte boards offers 2 PCI slots. Asus, Biostar, and MSI offers 3 or 4 PCI slots.
Abit and Intel/Foxconn will be releasing their new boards this week or the next. I believe some of them will have 3 PCI slots.
get an intel.

don’t get a fucking asus or biostar.
I got a amd 9750, gigabyte 790x-ds4 for $310.

Pretty good price… Vista gives me a 5.9
You can get a 3870 for $120 on new egg too, spider platform ftw.

why?
should have returned it

No reviews on this one yet, should I go for it?

If i get that one I can nix the raid card

What is it with you and all the Asus hate?

So that I could get lectured by someone and return it, duh.
i would say find the motherboard with the HIGHEST possible reviews you can. if 100 people gave it 5 eggs, they most likely aren’t wrong.

if you checked the reviews on the other Asus P45 boards, some received no problems, some DOA.
that’s very typical for Asus. if it works, its awesome. if not, its hell.
i’d hit it, but that’s me.

i don’t like shitty products that break.

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I’d like to join , but the site currently requires invites in order to become a member. Does anyone have an invite they could send my way?

Thanks!

Brennan

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What we are trying to do is print brochure inserts. We have ordered custom brochure folders already but now we plan to print the inserts ourselves.

What is a good printer for this? a printer that is under 500.00

Thanks in advance
good? under 500? something you’re going to give to customers?

no.
I’m assuming you’re going to want to print in color, so Ink Jet is your preferred option in that case. If you are printing a lot, look for a printer that has a low cost per page. Basically, the main difference that I’ve found is when you get a cheap printer it uses ink cartridges that are half filled while a more expensive printer gets a full cartridge. So, for the same $30 per cartridge you get more prints out of the full cartridge and thus lower cost per page.

there are plenty of ink jet printers under $500 that can print out very nice stuff. for over $500 you’re going to get something that prints faster, cheaper per page and lasts longer (higher number of pages it is expected to last). to say that you can’t get quality out of a sub-$500 printer is ignorant.

i’ve got an HP printer that i bought years ago for about $300 (printer/scanner/copier/fax). it prints very nice and my wife used it for quite a while to print shit for her students (she was a 3rd grade teacher in a shithole school that locked the photocopiers away from the teachers). she has printed tons of stuff over the years and the thing is still cranking without a problem. every so often i’ll print out flyers for my father’s business, though if he wants a lot he’ll go to a printing company just because in large quantities it makes sense.
speed and cost per page on inkjet printers is horrible at decent quality settings. It’s good for home and very low-volume usage where initial cost and size are prohibitive… However, if you’re printing out brochures "en mass" then it’s not the right technology.

I’d say double the budget and get a Xerox Phaser.

Only the best. Anything less is shit right?
Also, he said good, not great. Something for $500 may well do the job. And you don’t even know what volume he is printing in. So what if its a little more cost per page? Doesn’t matter if he isn’t printing thousands upon thousands.

You say he should spend $1000? Is his volume of printing on a lower cost per page printer gonna outweigh that extra $500?

TS needs to do some sums I think.
HP 2550L or HP 2550ps

that works good for me. they were like $299 a few years back. prints good and a pretty low cost per page.
we are looking to print out about 3000 brochure inserts about 5×8 inserts
and i have only heard good things about canon , epson and hp
So basically what is gonna go on these inserts will be our menus for catering. With some light graphics behind the writing.
So the first wave of prints will be 3000 prints on the inserts and once we use up those, we will print another 3000 or more.

So yea i need something that lasts.

i Appreciate all the suggestions
honestly, if you’re doing 3000 at a time, and you’ll do it more than once, you are much better off with something like a Phaser.
Why not get a Xerox Phaser 8560?

It’s a little more than your budget, but it IS worth it, and will end up paying for itself over time, with ink costs.

If you don’t need duplex support, then you can get one for $699.

is this also an inkjet and how much are the catridges? I havent used xerox before

it is NOT an inkjet.

you do NOT want an inkjet.

the 8560 is a solid-ink printer.

30ppm in both bw and color
5 seconds first-page-out.
2400ppi resolution
625 sheet capacity standard, optional 1675 extended capacity
network connectivity standard
85,000 ppm duty cycle
fastest color print speed in its class
fastest first-page-out in its class
cartridge-free ink design means you can add more ink without losing the ink already in the printer. and it’s solid so no messy liquids to mess with

here’s the pdf on cost-per-print:

great. this looks good! So whast the different between solid ink to inkjet? Thanks so much for the help
should answer all your questions about solid-ink

this looks like its definately what i need however i am not even sure if theres ink block catridges can even be purchased in retail stores since this technology is more of a exclusiveness to Xerox only.
you can buy these printers outright, or lease them. leases often include maintenance and ink contracts.

if you buy it outright, you can buy ink through local office supply houses such as IKON, or online.

office depot does sell them, but they’re over-priced.

Ordering online is the way to go, imo. you can get 16 packs for $169 or less (4 of each of the colors).
I used to work in a print shop, and we used a Phaser for a lot of different applications. They’re workhorses, and solid-ink printed docs have a really professional look to them, imo. I’d recommend the Phaser if you’re willing to spend the money.
Power consumption: The ink must be heated and a large portion of the printing mechanism must be kept at or near the ink’s melting point. Printers often keep a small pool of each color wax heated to temperature when the printer is not in one of its low-power modes. This is similar to laser printers which need to heat the fuser assembly. Inkjet printers do not require heated components (save high end, large format devices such as those used for sign making.) Xerox solid ink devices are typically incapable of meeting Energy Star requirements; they essentially become unusable if they do meet them. When Xerox sells an allegedly Energy Star compliant device, its "Intelligent Ready" algorithm immediately kicks in, and within 2 weeks the heaters are on all of the time.
Printer damage from moving: The printer contains melted wax when at operating temperature, and owners manuals warn it cannot be moved until it has completed a special cool-down cycle selected from the machine’s control panel. The manuals warn that substantial damage is possible, requiring servicing by a trained technician. The same problem occurs during a power outage. Given the printer’s high power use, it is not feasible to connect it to a UPS.

that scares me lol.

15minute warm up time!!!!! is that over exxagerating or is it right?

My work has a Xerox Phaser & it prints excellent color pages. I just saw the bill the other day for the solid-ink refills, was $93ish for 3 blocks of ink.

yea, but 3 blocks last an average of 3400 pages in color. That’s damn good! Plus you can get them a lot cheaper.

You can find 4 blocks of each of the 4 colors (CMYK) for under $170.

when you first plug it in, yes. But once it warms up, you don’t have to do anything… you could let it sit for days before printing and once you click "print" the first page comes out in under 5 secs.
Xerox Phasers are excellent for "small" bulk printing. I wouldn’t use an inkjet to make brochures, you’ll go broke buying ink cartridges.
oh ok. Seems good. But what i was ready is that i cant move the printer around much due to the melted ink blocks spilling all over the place. Do i really need to be worried about that? Once used, how long does it take before i can move the printer ? Thanks

Pick a good spot so you don’t have to move it.
You would be sickened if you plugged it into the nearest socket to get it heated up.

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Here’s how I went about installing the monitor, just in case the questions come up and someone might know: I shutdown my computer, unplugged monitor one and moved it to monitor two slot on the video card. Monitor is now on my floor with the new monitor plugged into the monitor one slot. I then turned out power and installed the stuff on the CD that came with said new monitor, drivers and some application that came with it. I hit update drivers and everything is up to date. Rather confusing as either I fail at Google or it just doesn’t want to show me what I want to know.

That normally happens when you have 2 monitors cloned. It is using a resolution from the old monitor that isn’t supported by the new one. Just unplug the old monitor or set the new one to be the primary.

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I have no idea what possessed me to do this, but I bought a 300x CF card and a CF-to-IDE adaptor to use it with, then I set it to be my Z: drive and put a 1.8GB pagefile on it. I figured it would benefit from the virtually-nonexistent random seek times that FLASH memory has, and that 300x (45MB/s) would be fast enough to be useful. I was right; PCMark05 reported a consistent increase in HDD performance of about 500 points, and more importantly, my HDDs are quieter, especially on bootup — which actually matters when your boot disk consists of three fucking Raptors that sound like coffee grinders on a good day.

One note: I had to use a special driver for the CF card to get Windows to treat it like a fixed disk (instead of a removable one), because without that it won’t put the pagefile on it. I don’t know if it’s the stock driver for Hitachi Microdrives or if someone edited it, but either way, if someone else wants to do the same thing, PM me and I’ll send you the driver I used.

Was it worth $75? Meh, I dunno, but it was a fun project and it improved things a bit.
awesome. now you can chew up a cf card in short-order

seriously tho… 11ty/10 on the retard-o-meter.
We’ll see how long it lasts. But whatever, it’s got a lifetime warranty.

I think I can deal with pegging the retard-o-meter if it also means I get a 10% increase in HDD performance.
i think you’d be better off with one of those adapters that allowed you to plug in sdram/ddr as a hard drive. i know they had limitations, i think they released another version that accepted ddr2 or something

boot times were amazing with those, but they relied on a small battery to keep all the data intact

Nope, still no DDR2 version of the iram. Which is a shame considering the price of DDR2.

the batt is a moot point when it’s just a pagefile.
What about a way to use a 8GB SD card?
I would think SD cards would be cheaper and easier to find. I know I can get an 8gb SD card at microcenter for $30. Although I did just find a 8GB CF card at newegg for $36 including shipping

I like that it cuts down on the seeking of the Raptors.

That’s seriously not a bad thing.

Is there anything inherent about that setup that couldn’t be done off of a USB thumb drive?

I’ve got a 4gb Corsair Flash Voyager GT sitting around that is pretty speedy for a USB drive.

yeah good point, i was pointing out the battery as a shortcoming to the device in general, but for a page file who cares.

too bad they don’t make it compatible with ddr2, i would buy one right now. could you imagine how quickly video transcoding and dvd ripping would be?

meh no diff than having a buttload of system ram. actually system ram would be a bit faster because it goes cpu > mem controller > ram… These ram-as-storage cards put the pci-express bus in the way.

no, i-ram uses a sata connection. it plugs into the pci slot for power. but it is limited to 4gb ddr1 and sata 150.

if the second generation of i-ram will ever come out, you could put 16gb or so on it. that would be enough to have an OS + rip dvds and transcode some video very quickly, much quicker than a hard drive.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I-RAM

could you imagine a RAID-0?

raid0 has thus-far proven nearly useless.

Even sata-150 is not as fast as system memory thru the mem controller. just need to properly write something to take advantage of it (and have enough system memory). 64-bit systems make that possible. I’m surprised we don’t see some enthusiast mobos with six or eight memory slots.
11ty/10 would be using readyboost in Vista…

Edit: Assuming it probably damages the flash drive from reading and writing

Probably a waste but who gives a fuck? Cool project.

Screw it. A £10, 2GB flash drive seems to be pretty good. PhotoShop CS3 starts in 3 seconds where it used to take around 10

I can handle wearing out a £10 drive.
why wouldn’t you just use that money to add extra RAM so you don’t have to use your pagefile?

Lexar makes 8GB 300x CompactFlash cards, but not SD cards. CompactFlash will always be the fastest memory card, because it has more electrical contacts and so it has greater bandwidth than cards with fewer contacts.

My board has three RAM slots. I’m using two right now, in dual-channel mode. If I wanted to add more RAM, I’d either have to add a third card and give up dual-channel, or replace the two RAM cards I have right now.

I actually considered what you asked about, and I went on Newegg to price out more RAM. I have 2x 1GB DDR400 right now, so first I looked at that; the CompactFlash pagefile cost about half as much. Then I looked at 2x 2GB DDR400, which is what I’d need if I wanted to upgrade, and Newegg doesn’t even sell 2GB DDR400 cards.

Besides, the point was to see if it would work, and if it would improve performance. I’ve already overclocked my Athlon XP (and by extension, everything else plugged into the motherboard), I’ve already got a hardware-controlled RAID, I’ve maxed out the RAM, I installed extra USB ports inside the case for a memory card reader and a USB hard drive with an internal docking bay, I’ve got a PSU with modular cables to keep things tidy, etc…

Using an SSD was just about the only thing I haven’t done to trick out my machine yet, so it was a natural next step.
you should have saved your money for a new machine. you must be planning that soon.

I was going to get an Athlon 64 machine. Then I was going to get a Core2Duo machine. Then I was going to get a Phenom machine. Now I’m thinking I’ll get a Nehalem machine.

The basic problem is my Athlon XP machine continues to do what I need it to do, and even if the improvements I make to it are incremental and the law of diminishing returns is kicking in, it’s still fun to see if I can eke out a bit more from my old hardware.

Kinda the same reason why I’m dicking around with a 4-cylinder Passat instead of buying a 6-liter G8.

Nope, I have the 1.8t. Much easier to modify, gets better gas mileage, and once modified properly, it’ll make more power than the V6 and still get better gas mileage, because the engine is lighter. 3500lbs. is heavy enough for any passenger sedan, it doesn’t need even more weight.

The V6 is more reliable, but only because it stays cooler. If VW had used silicone hoses instead of rubber hoses, the 1.8t’s heat bath wouldn’t make shit wear out so damned fast.
vw doesn’t know much about reliability except in cases of the utmost simplicity.

this i’ll concur with. i own a 2001 1.8T passat that has had a few reliability issues, although lately it’s been ok.

But that 10 year 100K mile drivetrain warranty make they comfortable.

what is with you mis-using "they" tonight?

vw has only a 5/60k warranty, iirc, as of 2002.

usually, yes. But VW had the old fox, rabbit, and bug.
very cool
i might actually want to try this one out.

also, how come the page file is used so much during boot up? i had no idea that this happened lol
How is this going now deus?

Apparently, you may be better off to use it as an external journal. At least that seems to be the case on Ext3, for fancy RAIDs (6, maybe 5?).

I like these guys.

I might need to do this.

I’m not sure why; I’m not really sure it is used that much during bootup, except to allocate and de-allocate segments of the pagefile as processes get loaded and demand more memory than they’ll ever really use, but whatever the case may be, it definitely is quieter on bootup with the CF card taking some of the hits.

Interesting idea. Not practical on a Windows system, I’m afraid, but for that you can always get one of Fujitsu’s new hybrid HDDs with the built-in FLASH cache. (heh, it rhymes!)

Anyway, it’s still working fine. If there were a way to check what the wear on the card is, I’d do it, but given that I bought a good card from a reputable company, I’m not worried about it wearing out before the end of the computer’s lifetime.

it also seems like it would be pretty easy to swap for a new card if that one burned out, right? there is no data being stored so at worst if it dies during use your PC may crash until you swap it out and redo the pagefile on the new one.
It would probably just throw up a stream of delayed-write failures, at which point I’d hard-off the computer and swap out the card.

The card is formatted, so I’d have to reformat the new card on another computer and use a utility to make a new blank 1.8GB file called "pagefile.sys", but that would take about five minutes. Not a huge loss.

I was forever pronouncing cache as cashay but I’ve known for a long time that that’s wrong. Still took me 2 mins to realise where your rhyme was. I’m still saying cashay.

If I do that external journal thing, I guess a hybrid drive could be very worth it! But does it need to be many gigabytes? 400Mb per partition, therefore 4Gb = loads I THINK. Could get an SSD, down the road. I will need to work it out. Not worrying yet.

I wish for a way to check the wear too.

Once I heard that with wear levelling an SSD can stand AT LEAST (As in the very worst case) one year of pretty hectic writing. There was a very good page that I might link back here if I get to it in the near future. Then again swap space is used a lott.

But I also heard that SSDs don’t do wear levelling accross the entire drive. Actually I think that was just Flash cards, which makes some sense.
Oh yes. I got a link:

Technically speaking, it is pronounced "cashay", it’s just that we Americans usually treat trailing e’s as silent — cashay, coopay, rooay, etc…

I guess it’s not surprising that SSDs don’t do wear-leveling across the entire drive, because the fractal algorithm used to do wear-leveling grows exponentially in complexity as the area covered increases. Eventually you’d hit a point where the embedded controller couldn’t keep up. It’s probably easier to treat the SSD as a spanned disk with multiple separate areas covered by multiple separate controllers running multiple separate algorithms. That SiliconSystems SSD must be pretty pricey if it has a single controller that can wear-level the entire disk at once.

From that description, it sounds like pagefile duty is the best possible assignment for my CF disk — data never persists past a single boot cycle, and rarely persists for more than a few hours, so I should get close to the theoretical maximum lifespan for my money spent.

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we just found out that someone had created a site for our company. now that we have have control over it, the ‘create an account here’ button is missing from the sign in page.

any idea on how to get it back?

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